ArdeFIN

What comes to padding the forearm is the exact same as bicep. The difference is that you get a lot more hits to the biceps compared to forearms that are kind of behind the gloves mostly.

I only remember a few hits to forearms except those side of the arm area hits that occur when reaching far out for a desperate save attempt. Biceps do get hits when you just try to passively make a wall to stop the puck.

These (or the alike pair) were just a few days ago in a Finnish goalie group in Facebook and I understood that those were sold&sent to US/Canada?

There is an idea in these and at the same time they just look annoying. 

On 12/6/2021 at 9:48 PM, insertnamehere said:

@ArdeFIN what do you use to shape/mold your plates? That looks like an even better idea than the clear bra. 

Heatgun at 300 deg celsius and small board pieces with clamps to make the long straight edges. Curved lines and more rounded corners I do with same heat gun & setting and bare fingers wet with cold tap water. Little by little it'll mold and I rarely burn my fingers at all. The 2mm thick sheet cools down quickly when you have cold tap water on your fingers.

Takes some time too but not as much as you would think. The 2mm thick PE is really nice to mold and bend as it heats throughly pretty quick and even. The thicker the plastic is the harder it is to heat enough and still not too much so that it won't melt completely. If it melts it'll be really hard to re-form back to any decent looks. But it might still work well even if it looked toasted.

On 11/7/2021 at 3:24 PM, RichMan said:

I like the oval side walls like on my TGC Reebok P1 but mine are kinda thin and they tend to curve like concave. Wonder if the original Koho did the same. I remember my H5 pro had the same walls but much thicker.

The 590 Pro Koho has the floaters over the sides. Other than that there is hardly any difference to AB Pro. 

Now the pictures before I forget it again.

The plate is as simple as I could imagine it to be, while still the edges were a bit of a pain to bend. The top and bottom edges are higher and the two other edges are only so much bend that they don't catch on any skate etc cuts on the ice. This one is for Vaughn (LT88 or V6 I think) where the knee block is curved on "front" edge. 2mm thick PE here.

And one really dark picture of my Warrior. I have to take one with more light but you should get the idea of it. If I remember right these are made of 3mm PE plate. LAce on the left is routed between the pad and knee stack and the right lace goes over the stack but under the top layer of the stack so it's not visible. 

As mentioned in some other thread already, I've been using PE plates on my knee blocks for over two years now.

Edges are bent up around the knee block and I added holes to the bent edge and tied the plate in place with simple lace around the knee block.

I've used 3mm and 2mm thick plates, but I don't see any reason why even 1mm thick wouldn't work. This is for PE, I don't know about the Lexan and how it reacts when cold.

No matter where I looked I couldn't find any pictures, but tomorrow I'll take a few so you'll get some idea of it. I've only done two sets of these so far as they've worked flawless and there hasn't been any need to remake them.

Continuing from what said, the foam accepts bending slowly and even goes to almost double if you give it time to do so. But more interesting feature is that the foam returns to the original shape when the stress is relieved. Holding the plate on one edge the the other edge bent down and under, it has the strength to return to flat without any help. Even the throat collar tries to open out straight when I opened the velcro.

The foam is double layered and it hard to tell if the layers are of different type of foam. The collar feels like the inside foam would be a bit softer and easier to press fingertip into the foam while outside layer feels more stiff. Productionvise it might be the same material all over as it would save a lot of cost while having only one type of foam sheet to use.

The smaller wedged parts over the shoulder are cut from the top layer and only bottom layer is intact. The covering fabric is then sewn through and foam is basically cut also. With few bending moves all the small parts were separated. I think it was also meant to happen that the small pieces are on their own to help the plate to form better  over the shoulder area..

I'll add some pictures later when I get them sorted.

Edit: faster than I thought, here we have some details to explain what I tried to write out. 

For the Black Friday I pulled the trigger and bought me one of these X3 Pro "clavicle guard" (as they've named it on the package).

The first impression while inside the plastic back. Yeah looks like Kova, slightly different details and no plastic sheets like inside Kova. Feels stiff so makes me wonder about the foams inside. It was straight in from -15 degrees Celsius so I thought it might also be a bit stiff from being cold as foams have that feature.

Package opened and the first feels:

- The fabric seems really thin and weak, not going to last a long time atleast if you build a lot of hair/beard around you neck and chin.

- The foam is like some memory foam, even when temperature has risen to room level and still when heated between my arms the foam is really stiff to change the form or bend. Most surprised about that as I thought it might be more like the gel foam or maybe even D3O that kind of flows from shape to other shape.

- Only on the neck area I could feel the foam being double layered, and overall feeling of the neck 'ring' is a lot like Kova protector has. Feels really good being on hand, has that same slowly adapting feel of the collar area foams, but maybe more stiff and firm. That might also come from being sewn to the round shape of the collarbone sheets opening for the neck.

They mention on the video above that the foam is a new type. I was hoping for there to be a soft foam against the clavicle area but there isn't. Neck area is good to be a stiff ring as it shouldn't be in direct contact to neck and also take the hits energy in and not let it go through to neck area. So the design seems to be good, quality from the first impressions is not in the high end, craftmanship is normal with nothing to mention on the downside.

The issue I had with Kova was that the clavicle area was so stiff plate that it rubbed against my clavicle bones and that was exaggerated with the C/A weight. Also the collar around my neck wasn't the shape I would've liked, not interfering anything but just not unnoticeable. I have to admit here that I only tried the Kova for two times but I wasn't able to dial the feeling at all. It just felt too much no matter what I tried. It is certain that it would've molded on me in time ie. broke in but I just wasn't keen to do it. It was affecting my playing having to thing of that feeling all the time.

Now I have some shoulder problems to add to all other problems so I might not see the ice as a goalie for some time. Also the local Covid situation is going bad and we are under 20 people limits starting next week so there might be some icerink close-up times ahead.

But I'll give this X3 protector some tryouts when I'm on my snowwiS project to get some idea how this one adapts when on use.

Anyone else that has this in use already?

@dreadlocked1 Well that's about exact setup I had in my mind, direct transition from my tucked-in setup.

I'll have a "service" routine for the C/A and pants before I'll take them into use. Just to wash them through as previous owner hadn't lately, and also add a few mods like the belly loop inside, check all the elastics and what else. 

On 11/14/2021 at 10:14 PM, insertnamehere said:

The knee block material intrigues me, the other day I somehow got the paddle of my stick stuck under my knee and slid super well, even on ice that had been skated on for quite some time. I can see this being a game changer, but could also require good edgework to stop yourself. 

Been using the PE knee block plate for two years now and wouldn't go back to Jenpro/Speedskin/etc. Only the Vinyl wrap from Varusteverstas/Kova is comparable. Superior slide from new ice to rough snowy surface and easy to control the slide amount with edgework. Actually I've been using the toebox or shoe edge to control the speed, that happens naturally so that I don't even think about it while playing.

A few of you have mentioned tying pants and C/A using the loop, that is on the outside of C/A belly area?? How do you do that, as while I tuck my C/A with my Warrior pants I cannot figure out how I could go untucked and still use the outside loop. Ofcourse if you use the lowest eyelets on pants then maybe but I would still see it restricting someway.

But alltogether every reply says that keep it simple, and that is what I am aiming to.

I was actually planning to add a loop inside the C/A to tie with pants with some elastic rope etc just the way I do now while tucking things. Back side I would probably go with the same elastic as I have now as it just feels so good.

But I'll have to try the pants on before I exclude the suspenders as I am 140lbs /180cm and the pants are size L there might be some struggle to get them snug. I don't really like the pants or C/A to be tight, even snug might be at the limit. Difficult to say now that I think of it.

This will definitely be an interesting journey.

@dreadlocked1 Can you take a bit wider picture of whole composition, makes it easier to understand the locations of the loops and the setup that way. 

Question as it is. I bought cheap set of snowwiS 996 C/A and pants and as the C/A is a bit too long on torso I thought why the hell not and start trying out without tucking the C/A.

So give me some insight on how you do it, any special tricks or things to notice? I'll gather up my own style at the end of it but need a good heads up to start from.

I'd prefer to not use suspenders which I do have available and use the C/A as suspenders.

6 hours ago, RichMan said:

I can suspect a lot of boot channel wear because of the buckles or whatever they'll call them.

This was my first thought too seeing the buckles.

About BOA, it'll be there right when someone invents how it is going to survive the puck and stick hits. Without breaking or opening up accidentally. I've seen some people taping their Brians gloves BOA ring to prevent it from popping open after making a save of a hard shot.

3 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

I am a fan of the Vapor 1X with the exception of the bouncy house rebounds from the floaters. It has had the same protection since day 1 with great mobility from day 1. I never had to break it in and played with it half hour after purchase!

That is the description of a perfect fit. Most of the C/A are really flexible when you try the sleeves etc. But the story changes when you put it on and the flex points don't match your body, or the other way. 

With my FrankenCCM I made a lot of testing and modding and from really awkward C/A I made a tailor made piece for my measurements. And it really is flexible and protective now, the flexibility was badly missing before the project.

So fitting the C/A right is the key to success. This really is becoming a sort science and it actually is except atleast I don't have any formulas to calculate anything. 

On 11/24/2021 at 9:05 PM, coopaloop1234 said:

I ended up selling it last year. Not the biggest fan of gloves that aren't a 75 break, but especially a Lefebrve glove/blocker.

It's the type of gear that I'll never understand the fondness for, it just feels so poorly designed.

Good choice to sell. They still have more value in the markets than I would give them. The design is poor and has only been renewed with Axis and Eflex5, atleast so much that you can say something is changed.

On 4/25/2020 at 9:03 PM, coopaloop1234 said:

Been doing the open and close technique over the past week on my CCM glove. Working from home lends me a lot of time to do so. 

Anyone else with a 590 have a weird squared off feeling with the plastics/foams in the heel area? 

I just started a journey with P2.9 to find out what one should do to make it work. I'll make a topic to the "Mods" when I get a bit further with it. So far dismantled the whole pocket and T and without those parts the glove is butter. 

A terrible piece of gear to be honest, but it will be improved.

On 11/10/2021 at 2:08 AM, cuprajake said:

34+1 plus a billion in shipping

Shipping from UK to Finland hasn't been really expensive while UK was in EU. Don't know if it's changed since. But the customs might ask for their share. How much for the Brians set? 

Edit: Friend wants to know for sure that he cannot afford 

Some pictures as this thread is useless without pictures.

The front of the pads. Not much to say or show. New bindings well made. Boot strap used to go over the boot area and those were removed and hidden. If you don't know you can't even notice the change.

The new strapping system. I'm going to change the top calf strap to be attached with velcro to between the flaps and propably add the triangle there too to widen the lock in. Other than that it works and is simple enough. On the bottom right you can notice the boot strap hole covered with black jenpro piece.

The leg channel. It is original and I couldn't figure any changes needed here. The Professor strap attachment went wrong, I wanted to have adjustability up and down the calf under knee but the tab is made to adjust the length of the strap. And the strap made by Kova already has plenty of length adjustment. But as said luckily the strap is in the right place. Maybe later on I'll try it in a different position to see if it's any better. Boot area pictures were not focused right so I'll be back here later on.

On 11/7/2021 at 3:24 PM, RichMan said:

I like the oval side walls like on my TGC Reebok P1 but mine are kinda thin and they tend to curve like concave. Wonder if the original Koho did the same. I remember my H5 pro had the same walls but much thicker.

I have 590 in the garage for no reason, old and beat up thing. I'll take a few pictures to compare.

They do curve some, but that also might change a bit now that the attachment is completely different.

The Franken thing went somewhat off as I didn't use any extra parts for the arms and only modded the originals. But have to say that these AB Pro arms are as beefy as my JB2000 had when new.

So here we go with two pictures, may I present the FrankenCCM:

And I had this with me on wednesday to try it out. It is bulky, nothing less. But it doesn't disturb me at all and as with the Brown when I got myself inside it is like a college on me. Bulky but somehow feels like taylor made for me. On yes it is actually. 

Not like it's a dream come true there are small problems still. First the arms are a bit too bulky on the wrist and don't fit inside cuffs like I would like them to. That is fixable though and might also be a bit of the arms still being not broken in from the original new. But I'm planning to open the forearms, narrow the padding down maybe an inch and modify the inner edge of the padding at the same time.

The Premier rib padding is just a bit too high in the armpits. Not like it's bad but just that much that it feels in there. I might only need to turn it twofold on the top edge and it's good to go.

Some adjustment to the straps lengths in front and back to balance the suspender effect. Not really a bad setting from nowhere but a little adjusment needed. Also the arm strapppings might need some to settle the elbow cups better on place.

How did it do protectionvise? Good, the chest area made a loud BOUM! when puck hit. Surpricingly to me it still felt through, not in any means bad but felt the hard wristers. The arms were better than I expected and were even better than on my Brown by a clear margin. This said the AB arms are still in a breaking in -time while the Brown is old and worn. And now the Brown is going to get a bit of upgrade at some time. 

It's lighter than the Brown but the arms are heavy, just as in the Brown too. Chest piece is really lightweight.

And due to being lighter on chest area it is by a margin cooler or at least it felt cooler. I haven't had any problem with Brown being too hot so I can't count this as a huge difference but still something to mention.

On 11/5/2021 at 5:43 PM, Quadzilla32 said:

What size are they? if you still have them might take them off your hands. I have always wanted Brians but just to expensive for me.

@cuprajake Don't worry about us being non UK, you still can ship goods out of there too.  What's the sizing? - Asking for friend

So then to the interesting part of this project aka. what was done to alter things.

The sideplates hold the elbow floaters in place. Originally it was sewn at the middle and starting from the strap on the right. New seam is visible at the strap too but is moved a lot towards wrist. Target is to give the floater ability to move away from the bicep when bending my arm while still hold it firmly over the elbow area. 

The top part of the floater is now more free to literally float and the same thing I did with the VE8 C/A modification I implemented here too. I removed the elastic strap from its original position on the sleeve and sewd it to the edges of the floater. This keeps the floater in place but allows again the floater to open forward when I bend my arm. The original strap around the bicep is now basically useless but is so much sewn in that I went with the easy way and left it there.

Sideview of the new arrangement. The whole floater is now positioned about an inch higher than before to get some more space to the cuff area. The attachment point of the upper elastics holding the floater plate was moved an inch to give the top plate more slack when bending my arm. But because of the structure it actually holds the plates inline with straight arm even without the strap. So it is more of a safety line there now.

Here's one more of the foater structure and how it was while sewn to the elbow tightly. With the sideplates firmly sewn at the other edge the complete packet stretched when the elbow was bent or as much as some 400D nylon has a give inbuilt.

One from the inside. The short seam on top is holding the bicep plating on place and the other short seam is for the floater. Would be actually nice to know why CCM designer ended up holding the plate up with that short seam and not just adjust the pocket to the right place and size. In the picture above you can see the pocket for the plate with a lot of extra size there. 

In the Vaughn VE8 it was actually the opposite, all the plate pockets were so minimally sized that the materials were stretched to fit the plates in. That's not a perfect way either.

Few original part pictures after tearing it apart.

Elbow floaters top view:

Down under. Slight offset in the middle bridge but its soft and only thin soft foam inside.

The sleeve spred out. This one is from already modified one with the bicep plate sewn to new upper position and the top flap removed. I also had to cut the corner of the bicep plate to fit it better as the left side top corner is bit too tight. Don't know if it is meant to be so or just a little misalignement of the fabrics.

What's in the pad? This is the bicep plating consisting of 5mm layers. White is all the same rubberish HD foam. Black layer between is hard plasticlike HD material that makes the shape for the part. It is lightweight and still very rigid and I would actually use it alot instead of plastic sheets if I were to desing these things.

The whole sleeve includes 5-10mm thick soft foam to make that airbag effect next to arm.

Sideflaps include variation of the mentioned materials and different thicknesses. I'm tempted to modify the wrist flap a bit to protect the area better. That is the place where I get stung with Brown too. A bit narrower plate on top and more wrap around. It would also give more room inside the glove cuff where it is a bit tight in this form. 

Attempt number one and first arm done and ready for testing.

Lets start with comparison pictures, original right hand vs. modified left hand.

And some catchers...

Repaired (new thumb plastic) Bauer Vapor 1X:

Repaired (thumb plastic, T, patches of jenpro) Total One NXG:

Repaired Total One (thumb plastic, T, jenpro patches):

Original Premier 2.9 /w: skatelace pocket:

Heavily repaired Eflex3 (new plastics, T, jenpro patches, beef):

Original refurbished VE8XP:

Repaired V6 1100 (thumb plastic, jenpro patches):

Repaired (thumb plastic, beef) V6 2200Pro:

Repaired (thumb plastics, beef, T) V6 2000Pro:

Repaired Epic 8800 (thumb plastic, beef):

Heavily repaired V3 7500 (plastics, T, beef):

Repaired Simmons UL7 (?):

Lets include some blockers here too. There might be some that I've posted earlier but hopefully not much of a difference in results 

Fixed original 2X sr:

Total One with Warrior palm mod:

Like new original Eflex3.5:

Heavily modified Eflex3pro with Warrior palm mod:

Original SLR2Pro:

Repaired VE8pro with something modded, as original weight was apparently 881g:

Repaired original V6 2000Pro

Repaired V6 2000Pro with Warrior palm mod:

Original V6 2200Pro:

Repaired V3 7500 with Warrior palm mod: