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3M Tape for Sliding? PPF Film


GoalieNut

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4 hours ago, BadAngle41 said:

The 3M product you linked is very similar (if not the same) as what @GoalieNut used... just different dimensions. The Igus product is interesting... but it's difficult to compare physical properties of it to the 3M as they have different intended purposes. 3M's technical data sheets are more like marketing materials with limited data points... so evaluating things like coefficient of sliding friction found on the Igus product isn't possible. That said... the Igus product is more than 2X the thickness of the 3M product (0.019685" (0.5mm) vs. 0.008" (0.2032 mm).)

I think it's also important to keep in mind that all of the products in question are "wear resistant." 3M is intended as paint protection film which is meant to hold up against light to medium road grit... and not sliding across a cut up crease. The typically polyurethane clear coat on top of the film provides the majority of the water sheeting which would give us the sliding characteristics we're looking for. As for how long that lasts... well @GoalieNut will have to let us know. 

Interesting, I wonder if after that polyurethane clear coat wears off, if you could sort of "recharge" it if the film itself is still serviceable with a small application of a ceramic coating/sealant product. 

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4 hours ago, insertnamehere said:

Before, during and after not necessarily in that order. Little bit tricky getting the trimming just right on the G5 knee wing as there's not a lot of jenpro on the edges and the backside is velcro. 

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Looks good.  Let us know if you noticed a difference in sliding.  I think you will.

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You'll absolutely notice a difference.  I wore my pads on ice while they still had the slippery tape that I added to them for an inline hokey tournament.  I kept it on there for several games until it was starting to peel off or until the moisture weakened the adhesive to the point it peeled right off.  They slid phenomenally well with the tape.  On all ice conditions.

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4 hours ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

You'll absolutely notice a difference.  I wore my pads on ice while they still had the slippery tape that I added to them for an inline hokey tournament.  I kept it on there for several games until it was starting to peel off or until the moisture weakened the adhesive to the point it peeled right off.  They slid phenomenally well with the tape.  On all ice conditions.

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7 minutes ago, insertnamehere said:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't see anything indicating that that's got an adhesive backing. How do you plan to get it to stick?

Correct there is no adhesive which is intentional. I’m going to roll the edges around the knee sliding plate to hold it on and prevent it from sliding side to side. To keep it from slipping off I’m going to make a Velcro strap to hold it on unless it ends up not needing anything to stop it from sliding off. The goal is to copy warrior’s design without seeing the exact design. This will make much more sense when I receive the polycarbonate and turn my idea into a physical product. 

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On 11/25/2021 at 11:19 PM, insertnamehere said:

I cannot overstate how well this worked. After an hour on the ice, sliding through a snowy, roughed up crease felt almost as smooth as on fresh ice. I don't think I'll ever play without this stuff on my pads again, so long as it holds up for a decent amount of time. 

Awesome!  I love finding new goalie hacks that work.

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On 11/25/2021 at 1:49 PM, ThatCarGuy said:

Correct there is no adhesive which is intentional. I’m going to roll the edges around the knee sliding plate to hold it on and prevent it from sliding side to side. To keep it from slipping off I’m going to make a Velcro strap to hold it on unless it ends up not needing anything to stop it from sliding off. The goal is to copy warrior’s design without seeing the exact design. This will make much more sense when I receive the polycarbonate and turn my idea into a physical product. 

So you are making slide plates it sounds like(check inline threads for attachment tips).  My concern with lexan is that it can shatter with a shot, just like a dangler.  Not saying it won't work, just something to keep in mind.  The best material for slide plates is uhmwpe sheets, imo.  Probably harder to work with, but guarantee it'll last longer.

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As mentioned in some other thread already, I've been using PE plates on my knee blocks for over two years now.

Edges are bent up around the knee block and I added holes to the bent edge and tied the plate in place with simple lace around the knee block.

I've used 3mm and 2mm thick plates, but I don't see any reason why even 1mm thick wouldn't work. This is for PE, I don't know about the Lexan and how it reacts when cold.

No matter where I looked I couldn't find any pictures, but tomorrow I'll take a few so you'll get some idea of it. I've only done two sets of these so far as they've worked flawless and there hasn't been any need to remake them.

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So I've had about 3 feet of uhmwpe tape I bought from McMaster Carr almost a decade ago from back in my inline days.  I remember a thorough thread on GSBB on both plates and tape.  Other materials were experimented with (someone even made slide plates out of the plastic storage tubs (which shattered almost instantly if I recall)), the umhw always lasted the longest for any application.  It's not just shots, but repeated butterfly drives the material will have to survive.  So when people didn't want to build plates, the tape was the next best solution.  The memories inspired me so I'm using up the rest of this tape and will give it a go tonight.  

Cleaned the landing area with alcohol and a magic eraser:

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Here was the planned areas to use up the tape, I ended up rotating the knee wing 90 degrees on one side to see if one way or another starts to unstick more quickly:

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Here's the tape applied and the pieces heated with a hair dryer to help adhesion.  The flash really shows the tape, but they are barely noticable to the eye for now:

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And before these final shots i also used Mother's VLR spray to "recondition" the jenpro.  While jenpro shouldn't soak anything up, you can tell the difference between alcohol dried jenpro and treated.

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Now the pictures before I forget it again.

The plate is as simple as I could imagine it to be, while still the edges were a bit of a pain to bend. The top and bottom edges are higher and the two other edges are only so much bend that they don't catch on any skate etc cuts on the ice. This one is for Vaughn (LT88 or V6 I think) where the knee block is curved on "front" edge. 2mm thick PE here.

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And one really dark picture of my Warrior. I have to take one with more light but you should get the idea of it. If I remember right these are made of 3mm PE plate. LAce on the left is routed between the pad and knee stack and the right lace goes over the stack but under the top layer of the stack so it's not visible. 

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4 hours ago, Chenner29 said:

@GoalieNut@insertnamehere -

I've got a roll of this in my Amazon cart.  How's this stuff holding up for you?  How many skates are you guys at with this stuff on now?

I'm also at 4 skates. No noticeable degradation in sliding capabilities, still well adhered to the knee wings. 

@ArdeFIN what do you use to shape/mold your plates? That looks like an even better idea than the clear bra. 

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